Winter, when plants are dormant, is the ideal time to prune most deciduous plants with the exception of elms and shrubs that flower before the middle of June.
Before pruning a tree or shrub take time to learn about the plant’s size and shape. Trying to prune a plant to a size or shape that nature didn’t intend is rarely successful. Tall trees do not respond well to being kept short. Likewise a shrub with a naturally wide form will need constant attention if they are to be trimmed into a narrow hedge.
Take the time to look the plant over carefully taking note of all dead, diseased and rubbing branches.
Start by removing all dead or diseased wood. Dead wood will be brittle and warm up to hand temperature.
Diseased branches can be misshapen but often they will just appear to be dead. When removing diseased branches, make sure the final cut is in healthy wood. Dipping the tools in a 10 per cent solution of bleach between cuts will keep from spreading disease in warm or wet weather. During the winter season diseases are dormant, making this procedure unnecessary. It is important to either burn or double bag diseased wood immediately to stop it spreading to other plants. Leaving it exposed to the air will allow the disease to spread. Remove all suckers or water sprouts. Suckers are found growing from the roots around the trunk. Water sprouts are long thin branches that grow straight upwards with out any side branches. Water sprouts usually appear when a plant has winter killed or been severely pruned.
Next look for branches that are crossing and or rubbing. Branches that rub together damage bark and create openings for insects and diseases.
Wounded branches are also weaker and more likely to break in a storm.
Remove or cut back one of the branches that rub against another. The
decision of which one to remove depends on the plant shape, size, health and the direction the branches are growing. As the ultimate goal is to have an attractive plant, be sure the branch that is removed will not make the plant misshapen. If possible keep the largest branch. Never keep a branch that appears to be weak or diseased.
When pruning a tree be sure to keep branches that have a wide angle between the main trunk and branch. The more perpendicular the branch the greater weight it can hold and the less likely it is to break during a storm.
Next remove branches that are a hazard. Branches should not obscure crosswalks or crowd sidewalks or driveways. They should not rub against buildings. If the branches are close to a utility line call the company who will send qualified personnel to deal with the problem.
Lastly, shape the plant into a natural shape. Never remove more than a one-quarter of tree or shrub in one year. Removing more wood will stress the plant causing it to send up a multitude of small branches, water sprouts that will need to be removed next season. Better results are achieved by spreading massive pruning projects over a number of years.
Never leave stumps. Always cut back to another branch, node or theground. Stumps will not produce new growth. They will die, rot and look unsightly.
Pruning is not hard as long as the basic rules are followed. Remember, removing less is better than too much.
Linda Tomlinson is a horticulturalist and educator living in RockyMountain House. You can contact her at your_garden@hotmail.com