TORONTO — Abandoning their respective plans to pursue pre-med and glassblowing is paying off richly for Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough.
The design duo behind Proenza Schouler has seen their careers surge since founding their New York-based womenswear and accessories brand in 2002.
The label’s moniker is drawn from their mothers’ maiden names.
It was a partnership forged while studying at the Parsons School of Design.
It was there they established a fashionable first, deciding to collaborate on a joint senior collection. The decision paid dividends when the entire collection was snapped up by Barneys.
While the days of design school are behind them, the designers, both 32, have done little to tinker with the creative formula that has helped fuel their steady ascent within the industry where they’ve earned acclaim for their sophisticated luxury looks infused with a youthful sensibility.
“I think as we’ve kind of added new things, shoes, bags ... (the brand has) evolved, but it’s still fundamentally kind of based on the same principles in the beginning when we were working together,” said McCollough in an interview steps from The Room at the Bay’s flagship downtown Toronto store which carries their collections.
“We still kind of sit down and go away and we’ll sketch for a bunch of days and the process leading up to the show is still pretty much the same.”
While they have an “army of interns” and dedicated support team, McCollough said they continue to work in a kind of “insular process,” and in many ways stick to themselves.
“In terms of a lot of things, we’re a little OCD. We’re a little micromanage-y,” he said, as Hernandez let out a hearty laugh.
“We like to make sure we’re fully involved in everything.”
McCollough said he and Hernandez were bookending their brief Canadian visit with stays at their Massachusetts farm sketching their upcoming spring collection.
It’s not uncommon for the cutting-edge design team to soak in a little inspiration for future designs while temporarily away from the spotlight.
Exposure to Native American crafts and textiles during a road trip from Sante Fe to Wyoming evolved into their fall collection, which was rich with vibrant geometric prints.
“Most of our collections are autobiographical in a way,” said Hernandez. “You want to know what we’re up to, what we’ve been doing? Just look at our collections.”
“We feed from our experiences so every collection tends to be about what our life was like six months before that. That’s the only way to really sort of kind of come up with new things all the time.”
The award-winning duo could soon be adding to their growing list of honours. The label is nominated as designer of the year in both the womenswear and accessory categories at the Council of Fashion Designers of America Fashion Awards taking place in New York.
McCollough and Hernandez shared womenswear designer of the year honours with fashion legend Oscar de la Renta in 2007, and took home the accessory designer of the year award in 2009.
Twilight star Kristen Stewart wore Proenza Schouler designs for the cover story in February’s Vogue, and was accompanied by the designers at the recent Met Gala wearing a crimson gown with black geometric pattern.
Despite having many high-profile fans such as Stewart, Oscar-nominated actress Jennifer Lawrence and Big Love star Chloe Sevigny, Hernandez said the celebrity attention doesn’t bear influence on their creations.
“I don’t think famous people are who we’re designing for — we’re designing for women who appreciate luxury and craft and design,” said Hernandez.
“Those are just some more of the public women that appreciate those things, but there’s a lot more that are not famous than are famous.”
It was the first visit back to Toronto in five years for the American duo who appreciated the chance to connect with supporters north of the border.
“We have a big love affair with the Canadians and we’re really happy to be here,” said Hernandez. “It’s just so cool to meet the women that buy the clothes and the people who love what you do.”
“Sometimes you’re in this little bubble of work and sometimes you forget there’s people out there that are actually buying these things.”
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Online:
Proenza Schouler: www.proenzaschouler.com