The mystical Indonesian island of Bali has enticed visitors from around the world for centuries.
Picture palm trees swaying in the breeze, long sandy beaches with inviting waves and sleeping volcanic mountains on the horizon.
Travel around the island will take visitors past beautifully manicured, terraced rice paddies, tropical jungles, quaint villages, crater lakes and forests teeming with monkeys.
I am staying here as a visitor at my brother’s house in the beach community of Sanur. It is quieter than the trendy and busier surfing beach down the road in the Kuta area.
Our day begins with a beach walk on the walkway that fronts the many resort hotels and villas located in Sanur. During our walk, we are treated to not only tranquil ocean views, but also a glimpse into Balinese culture as it unfolds each morning.
Unlike most of Indonesia, the majority of Balinese people practise the religion of Hindu, mixed with their own island spirituality. During my month-long visit, I have come to admire the many rituals and traditions the Balinese people perform each day. Each morning, we observe Balinese preparing and then placing offerings on sidewalks, entryways and small temples. The offerings are placed in woven coconut palm frond baskets and the contents change each day.
Balinese fisherman can be seen paddling their hand-carved wooden boats out to sea, while others congregate in groups as they sort out their nets. Still others are just bobbing in the sea, up to their necks in water, simply enjoying the coolness before they start their day. On shore, old men cover themselves with the already warm healing volcanic sand, hoping the sands will take away their aches and pains. It is obvious the Balinese people have a love affair with the oceans surrounding their island.
During our walk, we often run into other Balinese ceremonies, including today, the preparation of a bamboo cremation site. The cremation will take place on an auspicious day; ashes will be collected and then during an elaborate procession, thrown into the sea.
By time we finish our walk, sleepy eyed tourists begin to wander to the sea front open air cafes for breakfast.
We stop at a warung for a traditional meal of Nasi campur, where a petite, elderly Balinese woman prepares our early morning meal. This meal consists of rice and an assortment of small amounts of shredded chicken, boiled eggs, fish, vegetables, peanuts and hot spices. We hand over the 5,000 rupiah (50 cents) and the food is given to us in brown paper cone as a take away. Balinese eat this meal in variations for breakfast, dinner or supper.
On our drive back, the busy bypass highway is already swarming with scooters, motorcycles, cars and taxis. There is a never ending beep of horns as drivers declare their space in the congestion. One of the downsides of the improved economy in Bali is the addition of so many automobiles on an already too busy and narrow road system.
In Bali, you can always count on a surprise and this morning is no different. The traffic suddenly slows and then staggers to a halt as a duck herder calmly leads his ducks from one side of the road to the other. Only half follow him the first crossing, so traffic waits so he walks back to collect the remaining ducks. In a typical Balinese manner, drivers just wait until the crossing is complete. No one seems upset or angry; traffic starts again and the duck farmer continues on his journey.
Later during the day, on a bike ride, I encounter another ceremony in my brother’s neighbourhood.
Men, women and children wander from every corner in the community to the nearby temple. Men and women wear beautiful sarongs. The women arrive balancing baskets of colourful fruit and food stacked high on their head to be blessed at the temple.
The festivals, ceremonies and traditions practised by young and old are frequent. Visitors journeying around the island are guaranteed to encounter ceremonies as you travel through villages. Unlike so many tropical tourist destinations these ceremonies are not staged, they are doing what their ancestors have done and will continue to pass this culture onto their children.
Visitors come to Bali mainly for the beach, the diving, the surfing, spas and massages. They will find all those things, but the island is also rich in artisans. There are many painters, wood and stone carvers, silversmiths , goldsmiths and weavers on the island. A trip to the quaint village of Ubud will provide the opportunity to view and purchase the arts and crafts of Bali. If you are looking for a nice dinner and a souvenir, a trip to Ubud should be on your itinerary.
I also loved travelling to Bedugal to see the crater lake and to the central mountain area to view the famous volcanic mountain peak of Agung. Both this trips took me by spectacular views of terraced rice paddies, jungles and interesting villages. The volcano is a must see, but be forewarned that visitors will be hassled by very aggressive souvenir sellers in this area of Bali.
As I end most days in Bali, sitting at the pool, the gamelan music floats into the yard. The community orchestra has gathered to practise this intricate music passed on through the generations. It is a fitting finish to a Balinese day filled with tradition. This relaxing music, along with the palm trees swaying in the breeze, lull me to sleep. I dream of another perfect day on the mystical island of Bali.
When to go
Bali is a tropical island meaning it is hot and humid at any time of the year. It is most pleasant during the drier months of April through October. The humidity can be oppressive just before the rainy season in November and December. Avoid travelling during Chinese New Year to get better rates on hotels and villas. Visitors who wish to stay for more than one month should apply for a visitor visa in Canada before travelling to Bali. If staying for a month or less, pay US$25 on demand when entering through immigration at the airport.
Where to stay
Bali offers affordable rooms for bargain hunters as well as upscale hotels and villas. It is not difficult to find a small clean room with air conditioning for as little as $15. Kuta beach area is the most popular tourist destination, but it can be noisy and crowded. If coming to Bali for surfing and nightclubs, this is the area to stay.
If interested in a quieter beach holiday, check out the hotels and villas in Sanur. This area also offers visitors a wide range of prices. I checked out many beautiful hotels offering rooms for less than $100 a night. It is useful to go online to Sanur or Kuta sites and book hotels before arriving in Bali. Breakfast is usually included. Many surfers and divers choose accommodation at the north end of the island. Nusa Dua and Ubud are also popular tourist destinations. If choosing long-term stays, check out private villas for some outstanding opportunities. Many come equipped with staff for cooking and cleaning.
Things to do
Surfing, diving, fishing, trekking are popular activities in Bali. Getting around the island for site seeing is easy. Hire a driver with transportation for as little as $30 for the day. The island is 180-km long and 40-km wide so visitors can see many sights in a day tour. It would be a shame to come to Bali and only see the beach area. The lake and central mountain areas offer spectacular scenery and interesting villages.
Food and restaurants
Bali offers food in every price range. A tasty meal at a small beachfront restaurant, along with drinks, can cost as little as $8 to $10 a person. If choosing Indonesian food, it can be much less than that. Of course, this cost can go up dramatically if eating in upscale hotel restaurants. If the place looks fairly busy, the food is probably good.
Other tips
Use ATM for accessing rupiah in small amounts. Bring U.S. dollars (bills should be newer than 2003) and use money changers for larger amounts. Money changers can rip you off. Count the money back in front of them to make sure you are given the appropriate rupiah.
Barter when shopping. Start by offering about half of the asking price. Be polite and don’t insult the bargaining process. Even the cost of a driver and transportation can be bargained. Taxis have fixed rates. Ask drivers to start their meters.
Mona Knudslien is a retired Red Deer teacher and freelance writer.